And the kitchen sink....

I woke up at around 7ish, packed up (I didn't have to pack up my houseplants, like these people!!) and headed out to seseki onsen, on the southeast side of the Shiretoko peninsula, almost at the end of the road.

Sometimes I listen to people and don't really understand what they're saying until later. It happens a lot when they're speaking Japanese, but sometimes in English too...The bikers I'd talked to at the first campsite had said something about Shiretoko and an onsen in the sea, but it didn't really register until I saw a photo in the Touring Mapple (motorcycle mapbook) and thought it looked cool. Then I realized what they'd meant.

Anyway, the onsen pools are built out of rocks (and concrete) but they're located out in the ocean, below the tide line. When I got there, a guy was cleaning them, and the sign said open at 10. So I drove to the end of the road, watched the birds and a couple of fishermen and wrote some of this. I tried to write a bit every evening, but sometimes I'd end up falling asleep mid-sentence.

Around 10, I went back to the onsen (which is free) though exposed. (As was I, sort of) - there aren't any changing rooms or anything, you just walk down to the pool, strip and enjoy. I talked to another guy in the rotenburo who, with his wife (who was standing on the shore) rode a tandem bike around the world - it only took them three years! Now they're riding

around Japan. He recommended the number 3 viewpoint of Mashu ko (Lake Mashu) and also Lake Onneto (which turned out to be part of the MeAkanDake hike I was already planning).

I drove through the Shiretoko pass, which was nice, though actually pretty cold and foggy in parts. Made me want to get a motorcycle license... Hoped to see bears, but only a few deer.

Turned up the northwest side of the peninsula and went to the Shiretokogoko (Shiretoko five lakes). The lakes were really beautiful, clear, and reflective, and the walking trail was nice except for all the mosquitoes and package tourists buzzing around.

As I was driving out, a bear ambled across the road in front of me and down into the woods on my side. But by the time I got the camera turned on and pointed, all I got was a shot of dark shadows in the forest. I drove to the road that crossed below the one I was on, but couldn't find him - just a lot of deer.

Drove down through Utoro, which would also be a beautiful place to spend some time - beautiful coast - and on to Shari. Stopped there for another good salmon donburi and teriyaki burger. After that, found a public bath (sento), which was nice, because while I like the natural onsens, they still leave me feeling a bit grimy. The sento are nice, because they (usually) provide soap and shampoo, and have a hot bath, as well as (often) a sauna. And for only about 5 bucks. After a leisurely bath and sauna, I drove down towards Kussharo ko.

Along the way I saw this sign. The first line says something about cows. The second says "hassuru! hassuru!" (read: hustle! hustle!) The green/yellow chevron covering part of the sign is actually a new driver symbol... I was tempted to go see what was under the magnet, but the sign was a bit too high, and I didn't feel like climbing.

The campsites were closed for the night, so I drove up above the lake, found a parking area on the side of the road, and stretched out in the car, hoping I'd have enough gas to make it a service station in the morning.